I'll put pictures of my PCB and me doing it when I get the new connectivity kit. I might even make a video when I get my Droid.
There's one problem with the method you're using, and that's you isolate the pin-hole from the trace. Which is OK, if you're pro at reparing traces.
I, however suck at it. So, what I do is I make 2 | cuts on each side of the pin-hole so that regaining flow to that pin-hole is easy.
Let me show you with a mock-up I did in Paint.NET
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/4992/liteonpcbcloseupaoi.jpg
This makes it WAY easier to rejoin the traces once you're done with solder. Or a conductive pen. I personally hate waiting for the stuff to dry, so I use solder. It's just easier, faster, and always works.
Cut and strip both ends of the trace. Use this half-assed diagram for reference on the stripping. Don't worry about going overboard with the stripping. Just, once you see copper, stop. I use a free-handed razer blade, because it's easier to work with.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/1681/stripped.jpg
Now, with your multimeter, set it to either 2M Ohm, or whatever your multimeter uses to check if a circuit is complete. If you are unsure what mode this, try each mode while having the probes contacting each other. If your meter responds to the probes being touched, this is your mode. Untouched should register as OL (Open Loop), and touched should register as .000 (Perfect circut).
Use this reference to test if you've successfully cut your traces: (Ignore "Area of Interest", "Right side of cut" and "Left side of cut")
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/9900/liteonpcbcloseup.jpg
Once you have successfully verified these cuts are correct and have been made, it's time to continue with the regular guide.
Connect your drive to the SATA cable to your PC and connect your connectivity kit.
Put the GND pin (black) with your XX Ohm resistor to point A and take the 3.3V (Red) pin to B.
Turn on the drive, and do an intro in Jungle Flasher. You should get 0x73 (Good Flash).
Remove the GND pin, while keeping the 3.3V pin in. Click on "Read flash", and it should now dump.
Once you have the firmware, we need to close the gaps on the traces we just cut.
To do this, get your soldering iron warmed up (I use a 25W Radio Shack pencil tip soldering iron) and get some solder handy.
Once your soldering iron is ready, you need to make these solders.
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/1266/soldered.jpg
It doesn't have to be perfect, but make sure none of the solder is going outside the trace. The reason I like to use pencil-tip is so I can "draw" my solder.
Example. Imagine the soldering iron to be a pencil in every way, except the way you hold it. Put some solder at the side of the tip so that a nice bubble forms. Place the bubble on one side of the cut, and drag it along to the other side. You should now have a nice line over the trace.
Once you have soldered these 3 cuts, it's time to check the continuity.
Go back to the
continuity check image and all of those points should have continuity now. If they do not, you need to redo your solders. Use the multimeter to check from which points don't have continuity to help you figure out which ones have failed to complete the gap.
Once you have completed this, it's time to reassemble your Lite-On drive and flash it like a 74850C drive. (Send erase command, intro, write.)
This guide will become less crude over time when I can actually get decent pictures and some videos going.