dogma
...and then followed this tutorial: ----->
http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/XBOX_360_Liteon_83850-V2_/_93450_Solderless_Key_Dumping
I have done everything correctly (I think). I checked and rechecked that tutorial at least several hundred times (yes including changing resistors from 22 to 20 to 18 to 16 but for the life of me I cannot go beyond Status x 51. I tried this with Dosflash 32 first and every time I see that status x51 message so is Jungleflasher. What am I doing wrong? I have done several drives before but never 93450c series though so its not like I have no idea what I am talking about but I do. Its really driving me crazy. Oh and I also made the v cuts. I can provide a picture of this cut if needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. My whole day was wasted which really disappointed me since I have enjoyed flashing before with minimum hassles before.
P.S. I heard Dosflash 16 bits might solve many problems...is this true? Anyone has any tutorial on how to use Dosflash 16 with Xbox 360 Connectivity Kit V3 and Liteon 83850-V2 / 93450 Solderless Key Extractor Combo?
Great site and great tools guys. Thanks for your services.
Also saying hi to you all.
EDIT: I haven't checked my cuts with multimeter yet because I have no idea how to do it. I have a multimeter though (standard one)...anyone knows how to use this? Thanks. Sorry for noobish question :-[
EDIT2: So I see no one has noticed my thread. As I said I have the multimeter and I went ahead and read the tutorial from the company I bought it from and I did my test. According to this picture, which was taken from this thread,:
http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/soldering-guide-using-the-3-3v-and-gnd-clips (I am not stealing your picture...just borrowing...I hope you don't mind)
I meet all the 'SHOULD NOT HAVE' continuity except the green one. That picture was making the soldering process but I am following no soldering one where I am making a V cut. Should I still have to worry about the green one to be discontinue due to this V cut? Thanks.
Tutoromix
Follow this step-by-step tutorial (Steps 1-15, Reading and dumping) here -
http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-read-and-dump-key/
Most of the time Status 0x72 won't happen unless you cut traces deeper. All you have to really know is that either Point A/B is responsible for powering up the drive or allowing you to get Status 0x72. If you cut one of the traces deeper to
not allow the drive to power up by itself, then the other trace must be for Status 0x72. So concentrate on cutting that one deeper.
I would just cut both deeper. Make sure you cut exactly how it was shown in the tutorial. The bottom trace can be cut fully, but not the top trace. Ensure you are cutting EXACTLY as shown (the PCB pictures are not to scale). Anyway, there is a way to easily fix the top trace if you didn't do it as shown.
dogma
Thanks for your reply. I will let you know how it goes. :-X
dogma
Hi,
I have still not resolved this issue yet so I took a picture of it and hoping someone can tell me the solution to what I am doing wrong. I marked the appropriate places to show that there are no continuity when I tested via multimeter except one place also shown. I am attaching this file in this post so you can view it on a new windows as its .9 MB. This is really driving me insane and I know I am doing something silly that is preventing me from retrieving the key. Thanks once again for any replies.
P.S. I am assuming my A area was not cut properly? How do I resolve/fix this cut if it hasn't been cut properly? Did I cut too deeply or cut in the wrong area? Thanks.
EDIT: I am so silly...THERE ARE CONTINUITY FROM THE BLACK LINES ON LEFT AND RIGHT OF POINT A CUT AREA AS THE PICTURE IS SHOWING. I SEE 0.009 Ohm ON MY MULTIMETER. THESE ARE THE ONLY TWO PLACES I SEE THEM. THE REST OF THE BLUE AND DARK PINK LINES ARE INFINITY EXCEPT THE RED LINE AT B TO A WHICH ALSO SHOWS 0.009 Ohm AS I STATED ABOVE. SO I AM ASSUMING I NEED TO CUT MORE TO GET THE CONTINUITY COMPLETELY OUT FROM POINT A? THIS IS GETTING MORE INTERESTING THAN I THOUGHT AND I AM STARTED TO ENJOY IT AS I AM GETTING CLOSE TO SOLVING THIS AND I WILL. ;D THANKS FOR ANY REPLIES GUYS. APPRECIATE IT. ALSO I WOULD LIKE SOME POSITIVE FEEDBACK ON MY PCB BOARD AS TO IF THE CUT AT AREA A IS TOO FAR OFF THE LIGHT-GREEN AREA. THANKS AGAIN. SORRY FOR MY NAGGING PROBLEMS. :-[
dogma
Bump for any enlightenment :-\?
darkxsky86
Im pretty much stuck in the same boat as you. I cant for the life of me end the continuity on the green lines. I cut the traces like crazy and it looks so much worse than the pics in the guide but it still has continuity. I've wasted almost 7 hours today trying to get this damn thing to read but i still cant. At this point i dont even care if the traces are so damaged that their unrepairable, all i want is the key cuz i got 4 other dvd drives laying around which i can flash to. Gonna call it a day and try again tomorrow, so if anyone can help us out itd be much appreciated.
dogma
Hi can I see your PCB board? I would like to compare mine with yours. I made my cuts little bit deeper than the picture I provided but to no avail. Its always always status x 051 with DosFlash and Jungleflasher x0FF or something like that without showing my driver. *sigh*
EDIT: Also I am thinking to repair my A cut trace via solder and then try to make two cut, one on left and one on right of the A region of the board and then use the pins again...any thoughts on it? Anyone?
I am thinking to use this rough guide that this guy provided here:
http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/soldering-guide-using-the-3-3v-and-gnd-clips
darkxsky86
Wish i could but i cant get my camera phone to focus, so its just a giant blurry blob of an image. Anyways what i can tell u is that i went farther than what was said to be done in the tut but it still has continuity. I even made additional cuts on the left and the right side of the trace goin from the link you posted and it still has cont. I really dont get what im doin wrong. Oh yeah, do you know if we're suppose to have continuity on point B?Cuz i have continuity on it...
dogma
There shouldn't be any on B at all. Can you at least draw it out where the continuities are from the picture above? I think from your points of view, if there continuity then you haven't cut the traces deep enough...My problem, I believe is that, I probably over cut the area and for that it is not even recognizing.
I hope to God I am using the multimeter properly. How are you using your multimeter?
Also I am going to give this a little bit more try and then gonna solder the area and reapply my cutting traces on that particular area again.
God this is stupid...should have done soldering earlier instead of just cutting V.
darkxsky86
The way i use the multimeter is i set it to beep if there is a closed circuit or uncut trace, its a cheap radioshack multimeter but it works.
Well i was able to completely get rid of the continuity on the green line, but now my drive isnt even detectable anymore in dosflash. Not sure if B has anything to do with it since there is still continuity along the B circuit but ill just cut it deeper. Although im not sure why my drive is undetectable at all right now but imma try and cut B some more and see if i can get a reading.
darkxsky86
FINALLY!!! I was able to extract the key from the drive and flashed it to another spare liteon drive i had laying around and it worked! The problem was B wasnt deep enuff so i made it deeper and i was able to get the key using iprep. Dosflash didnt work for me as it kept on freezing everytime i tried. I had to run iprep thru a bootable usb drive and it took many many tries to get it to read.
As for the drive,i dunno if i can repair the traces since A was cut very deep but i dont really care since i had spare drives for back ups. As for the reading part, i was able to get a reading using the 22ohms resistor its just that it took a lot of trial and error to get it. Anyways, good luck to u, hope u figure it out somehow.
dogma
Oh very good for you. I am going to try it out tonight and see how it plays out. If successful, I will just solder it to fill the gaps. If unsuccessful, I will solder the gap first and then proceed on cutting. I wish the mod/expert would answer some of my questions though. No idea why they aren't replying...busy perhaps. :'(
By the way...was your A area cut as deep and beyond the light-green as mine or yours is little bit better cut than mine?
Also for iPREP, can you please write down what the steps you've followed. Did you type the l-o-ers command? How did you find your sata drive? Thanks for your replies. ;D
darkxsky86
No i didnt cut beyond the light green as that would cut into another trace. What i did was i did those v-cuts which would cut off continuity between orange and light blue lines, but the green line would still have continuity. So what i did to cut off the green line was to make 2 separate deep cuts, 1 on the left of the v cuts and another 1 to the right of it, they were straight cuts.
For the iprep, i use something called iPrep_0.12.2.1 and made my usb drive bootable. So i would boot off the usb drive during windows bootup so it would run in DOS. Then i typed LIT ********(*which stands for what you would like to name your drive which will create a folder on the usb drive)Then i proceed by following the directions which appear afterwards. BUT before it proceeded to detect the drives, i put the pogo pins on point A and B, pressed any key to cont, and it started detecting the drives, however, i had to do this part many many times before i could properly detect it. Afterwards i typed "R" for read and before i execute it i removed from point A and typed Y to proceed and it read properly, make sure your datasum isnt 0000 or else it was a bad read. O yea and i use a VT6421 PCI card to read it and make sure u disable all your drives so it makes finding your 360 drive much easier as there should be only 1 to select from the list, hope this helps
dogma
so your A cut was something like this:
including the V cut as the original tutorial mentioned? if so, then didn't you have to add a jumper cable or something between those straight cuts? I don't see how making additional two straight cuts next to the V cut would make any difference than the original tutorial. I mean if that was the case, then why worry about the V cut? Why not simply go with straight deep cuts left and right side of area A. Sigh*should have done my research more before making any hasty decisions.
Thanks for your info by the way on iPrep. I haven't tried it but when I do, I will post here.
darkxsky86
I wasnt aware of any jumper cables to be used and i dont know what u mean. From the way i see it, i didnt see the point of making the V cuts as what it seemed to do was separated the middle point to the left and also to the right. However, the left side is still connected to the right side as thats why there is still contuinity. The tutorial was not clear on that so making those left and right cuts to the trace was unavoidable.
The fact that i made the V cuts super deep and it still had continuity.It was not until i made the left and right cuts to the trace which actually fully separeted the trace from the left to the right and thats when i lost continuity and it worked. So i guess the tutorial was either wrong on this part, or somehow i didnt follow it enuff, but anyways if u try making those left and right cuts it should work.
Actually if i had stumble upon that pic from wherever tut u got that from, i would've just made those left and right cuts rather than bother with the v cuts. Right now im still in the process of repairing A. I can get continuity between left and right side, however i cannot get continuity between left and middle point, as well as middle to the right point(the ones where i made those horrible deep ass V cuts. So thanks to the official tut, im kinda screwed.
darkxsky86
Yea the tut threw us a curveball but i was able to repair the deeply damaged trace. I repaired B easily using the silver glue but for A, it only fixed the green line so i took it up a notch and thoroughly cleaned off the glue and soldered the points. The v cuts were easily repaired with solder and the drive has been flashed and is now finally working.
And yea i use the 22 first and it worked,after abuot 10 attempts though since this is like a 2 man job, the pogo pins either kept sliding off the points too early or i didnt touch it right. Anyways where r u now, any progress?
dogma
No. I didn't try it anymore. Its sitting somewhere at home and I will try it few days later since I have some personal work to finish. Its for a friend of mine that I was helping it out with as I have done many xbox 360 flashing before as they were lot easier than the new ones. Well, I will bump this thread and let you know how mine goes when I actually sit around again and do it. You can see the progress if you are still around. Thanks for your replies.
By the way did you see the new xbox 360 slim? God I hope they've improved on the heating issues and hope the new system is lot easier to mod than 93450c series, which I highly doubt. Its probably the newer version where they patched the traces and/or reconnected with something that will take few more months for people to figure out which is what... but I am going to buy it once they start to show up in the market. You can't go wrong with 250GB hdd and built in super fast wi-fi. OH YEAH. At least I can use it for online gaming. ;D
darkxsky86
Yea heard about the 360 slim a few days ago but i also jsut bought the 360 arcade bundle 2 weeks ago which is the one i just flashed. I dont regret it though since i already have everything i need for now. The slim does seem enticing, the new design looks pretty sleek, although it doesnt really look all that slim to me, just looks cooler.
All the features it has i pretty much have them all already, like a custom hacked 250gb drive and a wifi adapter(not official ms). So needless to say all that it has goin for me so far is the design, and its supposedly quieter and such but the arcade i have right now is really quiet as well so i dont even notice the noise when im playin games. Another thing is the fact that we dont know how easily hackable it's suppose to be so i dont want to gamble and buy it only to have to wait for it to be hacked. Im currently workin on modding my arcade case and possibly adding leds to the controller so now that leaves me with no real reason to even buy it.
1 last thing, the slim should be showing up before the end of this month, some retailers get them as soon as the 19th(amazon) so just shop around.
dogma
I must be dumb or something or having an extreme case of brain fart but for the life of me I cannot make iprep to work. Everytime I type LIT ******** (* replace with a folder I would like to name), I always get bad command or unknown files' message. Would you or anyone know what I am doing wrong? I format it in a Floppy disk instead of a thumbdrive. Also is it possible to have your iPrep files from your thumbdrive? God every time I try this, I always am getting disappointed with it. Fuck. :'(
