Help with first 93450c

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noir83

Hi all, got a 93450c here that im trying to dump. Im very sure i've cut the traces properly because i have no resistance in the multimeter when i test the pad from either of the cut traces to the nearest neighbouring pad on the same track.
Theres a couple of things im not too sure about according to the tutorial (i've purchased Tiaos first 83850v2/93450c solderless kit+ silver glue).
According to the resistor reference on the wiki page it shows 4 resistors that i should have in my kit, however, aside from what i believe to be the 22Ohm resistor- the rest of the resistors' bands dont match the diagram so im unsure of which of those is which. They all have 4 bands
1 being gold black l.blue brown
2 being red black black gold
3 being gold black d.blue brown.
according to the guides posted, its stated when the traces are cut correctly, the drive should NOT show up when POST appears, but should appear and be ejectable once POST is done with the red 3.3v AND black pogo are in place upon boot up?
So far i've not been able to get the machine to POST with the drive+pogo pins on the 22ohm, but because i dont know what the other resistors are im hesitant to try them without further info. i take it these are supposed to be the goto remedy for when the drive is NOT detected on startup?

Tutoromix

Use a 20 ohm resistor. If you take a look deeper, you can easily compare the color of the bands from your kit to the one in the tutorial for the 20ohm resistor, or use a multimeter. http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/f/f0/Resistors.jpg

http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-read-and-dump-key/ wrote:Steps: (Reading and dumping)
1. First you must connect up everything and attach it to CK3, the DVD drive, and to the computer's SATA/Molex ports. Turn on the computer and the CK3 switch - the drive is detected during CMOS/BIOS/POST and is able to eject.
2. Attach a 20ohm resistor to the black pogo cable. Attach the alligator clips onto the CK3.
3. Plug the golden end of the needle into the jumpers. Only the tiny silver part should make contact with the PCB.
4. Cut Point A off the light-green line as shown in the tutorial. (Try your best not to cut behind the dark-green lines)
5. Cut Point B off the light-green line as shown in the tutorial. (Try your best not to cut behind the dark-green lines)
6. Cut both traces deep enough. If you accidentally cut something else, then it is fine since it should be only a scratch. A good cut should be easily visible with the eye, after you start seeing brown wires hidden underneath the light-green line. Blow off any debris from your sharp knife so that it doesn't hinder the cut marks. http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/c/cf/Cut-done.jpg
7. Turn on everything that came with the kit and your computer. Don't forget about the CK3 ON switch.
8. During BIOS/CMOS/POST, it shouldn't detect your drive. Turn off computer. (Cut the Point B red-Power/Positive trace deeper if it does)
9. Try attaching the red pogo pin cable into the Point B circular hole. Keep holding it down tight and don't allow your hands to slip. http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/2/2c/Touch-points.jpg
10. Boot up the computer. The drive is finally detected in CMOS/BIOS/POST and should be able to eject using the CK3. If it doesn't eject, then make sure it can at least be detected when you use both pogo pins, or the red one only.
11. Highlight DosFlash32/64.exe
12. Keep holding down BOTH the red pogo cable onto the positive and negative/ground points as shown in the Tiaowiki tutorial. http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/2/2c/Touch-points.jpg
13. Now launch DosFlash and you should get Status 0x72
14. Before reading the key, let go off the black pogo cable touching the negative/ground point (but still keep the red cable connected). You should have a DataSum with a 4 digit value consisting of numbers or numbers/letters. Dump the key again to check if the DataSum will be the same. If the freezing is giving you a hard time, then backup your 256KB .bin key onto a USB device, etc.
15. Be sure that you are using the jumpers to touch the correct points on the PCB (Positive = PWR, Negative/Ground = Status 0x72) with your hands, and that you are holding down onto it properly before highlighting and launching DosFlash as stated in the tutorial. Ask someone to hold it down if it is not comfortable. This step must be done properly for Status 0x72 to show up. If it is not showing up, then you need to cut the traces deeper (but now ONLY for the black-Ground/Negative Point A trace). If you experience PC freezing, then it should stop freezing eventually. http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/this-may-help-with-ck3-freezing-issues/

noir83

thank you for the link to the photo of the Ohms, i had not seen that image on the Tiao tuts i read beforehand. Turns out i was using the 22 ohm and i do have a 20 ohm gonna give that a shot shortly.
By the way, theres no continuity between the first local pad around the 3.3v cut, but i did notice that when i tried to eject drive after powering up with the red pogo/black pogo in respective locations that i could not eject the drive. Could that also be due to the wrong resistor ?
Gonna try it again shortly and post back how it went, cheers for your time.

Tutoromix

Just skip to Step 11 (DosFlash) after following Steps 1-8
My Step 1-15 tutorial is just to make this tutorial here easier to understand and the core mechanics/basics of it - http://www.tiaowiki.com/w/XBOX_360_Liteon_83850-V2_/_93450_Solderless_Key_Dumping

noir83

Thank you for the link.
However, prior to checking back here i managed to get the key!
Both my trace cuts were proper but i was getting status x51/x52 from DosFlash64 & JungleFlasher. I decided against improving the cuts and then opted to boot into XP x86 as i'd tried this all under Win7 Ultimate x64. On the second go, i got the x72 i wanted and dumped the key 3 times successfully.
now.. onto whatevers next lol. thanks for the help.

Tutoromix

This is next - http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-read-and-dump-key/?action=dlattach;attach=51 Images are not to scale so be careful.
For Point A, notice that I didn't pass the Dark-green line border at the top of where I am rejoining. Also, I didn't let glue get into the pad, only just where I cut.
For Point B, notice I didn't pass the 2 dark-green borders at the top and bottom. I am rejoining only the light-green line in the middle.

Steps: (Rejoining of the traces) http://www.tiaowiki.com/wiki/images/3/32/Area.jpg
1. Now that you have the key, even if you screw this part up, you can just buy a new LiteOn/BenQ drive. Avoid Samsung/Hitachi. No iXtreme LT firmware on those. Remember! The Circuit = light-green lines going to and from the pads | The Borders = dark-green lines. So be careful not to short the light-green line circuit by passing those dark-green line borders with your silver glue!
2. Basically, use a very tiny pointed object (the needle of the silver glue) and use it to wipe/patch the traces you cut with conductive glue/tape. ONLY the traces must be fixed and nothing else. The glue can get inside the circular pads if you accidentally cut near to it since they must be apart of the circuit, but try your best not to. Be sure a small amount is applied onto the trace, but avoid letting the glue spread outside of the dark-green borders). Take off excess amount of glue by wiping the needle onto a plastic cup, etc.
3. Do not spread the glue all over the place. Wipe it off immediately before it dries. Only a tiny dot of silver glue should be applied onto the light-green area where the cut is. Use the needle of the silver glue to spread it on the trace only. Be careful not to damage the needle when you touch it on the PCB. Be gentle as you apply it on the trace.
4. Once it is dried completely, see if the drive can power up by itself without help from the CK3 kit (meaning without using the red & black pogo cables).
5. If it is detected during CMOS/BIOS/POST, then you were successful and can begin flashing here - http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-spoof-and-flash-to-a-new-liteonbenq/

noir83

i've added as little silver glue as i can. point B looks relatively acceptable, as for point A i think it may be slightly, overdone but i wont know for sure until it dries completely. but on sight, it doesnt look to have filled the pad so i think im good.
i will look at it in the morning and test it with the multimeter.
if the glue is in the light green area where it shouldnt be, what effect does it have ?

Tutoromix

Post a clear quality screenshot of your PCB when it dries.
This is how your silver glue should look like http://www.tiaowiki.com/forums/xbox-360-hardware-talk/how-to-read-and-dump-key/?action=dlattach;attach=51
I didn't pass any dark-green border. The actual Point A border is on top of the pad and is connected only by the light-green line. It would appear it is sitting on the dark-green line, but it is not. Also we went and rejoined over to the dark-green line to ensure that the light-green line is fully rejoined without any gaps. However, I did not pass over any extra light-green lines/areas other than what I rejoined.
If you make a mistake, remember to wipe it off.